Orient Star Releases New M34 F7 Semi Skeleton Models

Orient Star Launches Three New M45 F7 Mechanical Moon Phase Watches

Orient Star Launches New M45 Moon Phase Watches

Panerai Presented the 2023 Novelties in Manila

More scenes from the event: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/FXQxubZ5qkk

Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon Sold Online for Around PHP315M by Christie’s

Christie’s Watches Online: Top of the Time auction ended March 20 featured the sale of one of the most complicated watches on earth: Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 6002G-001. The watch fetched a price of HKD 45,450,000 or around PHP315,000,000 (+/-USD 5.79M). The complications of the 6002G include an acoustically superb minute repeater with two ‘cathedral’ gongs, and a tourbillon. The front dial indicates the hours and minutes of standard time (mean solar time) and displays the perpetual calendar with a retrograde date, months at 3 o’clock, days of the week at 9 o’clock, leap-year indication at 12 o’clock and moon phases at 6 o’clock. The second dial displays the astronomical functions with star chart of the northern sky, hands indicating sidereal time, extremely precise moon phases showing the rising and setting orbit of the moon. The case features two crowns, the lower crown for winding and the setting of the hour and minute hands, the upper crown for setting the sidereal hands, starscape and moon’s orbit. 

Patek Philippe Ref. 5208P-001

Another Patek Philippe Grande Complication (Ref. 5208P-001) was sold for HKD 7,812,000 or around PHP 54,000,000 (+/- USD 1M). The 5208P brings together some of the all-time great horological complications; a minute repeater; a monopusher chronograph, and an instantaneous perpetual calendar displayed in apertures along an arc ; a moon phase and day and night indication. This highly sophisticated combination of functions comprises 719 parts, hand-finished throughout in accordance with the great Genevan tradition. Most importantly, reference 5208P is one of very few ultra-complicated watches fitted with a self-winding mechanism.

Gerald Genta

Other than the Pateks, a Gerald Genta was sold at a price which is much higher than the estimates. The Gerald Genta Platinum Skeletonized Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar watch was sold for HKD 819,000 or over PHP 5,600,000 (+/- USD 100,000). As mentioned, the skeletonized watch features a minute repeater and a perpetual calendar.

Rolex Daytona Ref. 116509

For Rolex watches, there is an indication of the stabilization of prices after the big dip at the end of 2022. Two Submariners Ref. 16610LV (“Kermit”) sold for HKD 163,800 or PHP 1,135,000 (+/-USD 20,800) and HKD 189,000 or PHP 1,300,000 (+/-USD 24,000). Daytonas were also sold at healthy prices such as a Ref. 116509 at HKD 302,400 or around PHP 2,100,000 (+/- USD 38,500).

To read more about the auction, you may visit the following link: https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-top-time/lots/3229?page=2&sortby=LotNumber

Images and material from Christie’s.

IWC Launches Individualization Services for Portugieser Chronograph in Dubai and Shanghai

IWC is now providing an avenue for its clients to mix and match the material, dial, and strap of the Portuguese Chronograph. “Our new individualisation service enables clients to become actively involved in the design process of their watch. They can assemble their favourite version of the Portugieser Chronograph using an attractive choice of case materials, dial colours, and straps. Unlike with an online configurator, different combinations of materials and colours can be tried out directly on the wrist, turning the individualisation process into an exciting and memorable experience,” according to Christian Knoop, Chief Design Officer at IWC.

Clients can choose between a stainless steel case or an 18k gold case as the base of the watch. For dial, IWC has made available 16 colors. For the strap, there is a wide selection of calfskin and alligator leather, TimberTex and rubber straps, and a bracelet option.

Upon the final selection of the client, the watch will be put together and will be delivered to the client after approximately 3 weeks. The individualized watch is differentiated from the production watches with a small “I” in a circle, placed in the small seconds subcounter at 6 o’clock.

The individualization will initially be available at the flagship boutiques in Dubai Mall and Shanghai Taikoo Hui Mall.

IWC is available in the Philippines through its boutique in Greenbelt 5 and within Lucerne stores in Shangri-La Mall, BGC, and Solaire.

New “Jumbo” Models for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Audemars Piguet (“AP”) is celebrating the 50th anniversary of its Gerald Genta designed Royal Oak. The Royal Oak was launched in 1972 and it was the first of the iconic luxury sports watches people know of today. For proper context, the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Vacheron Constantin were released in 1976 and 1977 respectively. During the release of its first iteration back in 1972, the Royal Oak courted a bit of a controversy as it was deemed to be very different from the traditional watch designs. Further, the Royal Oak was considerably oversized during that period. This led to the watch being nicknamed “Jumbo”.

For the first 20 years of the Jumbo, there was only one self-winding extra-thin model. With the release of the new Jumbo, it will be available in 4 materials: stainless steel, yellow gold, pink gold, and platinum.

Movement

The new Self-winding Calibre 7121 measures 3.2mm in thickness and took 5 years for AP to complete. The movement was designed to fit in the extra-thin 8.1mm “Jumbo” case. Power reserve has been improved to 55 hours from 40 hours.

AP Royal Oak Jumbo in Platinum

Design

Aesthetically, the design remains true to the Genta DNA. There have been no major alterations in the new Jumbo. It appears that the philosophy is directed in perfecting a classic model. Watch enthusiasts and collectors will be happy because there is absolutely nothing wrong with the original design of the watch.

Stainless Steel

The stainless steel model is a tribute to the original Royal Oak from 1972. The dial retains the iconic Petite Tapisserie pattern and the Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 color. The model also retains the hour-markers and hands of the original. However, one major difference is that the new model has a sapphire caseback to display the movement with the anniversary oscillating weight.

(L-R) Stainless Steel, 18K Yellow Gold, Platinum, 18k Pink Gold

Other Models

Aside from the classic stainless steel, the new Jumbo is also available in yellow gold, pink gold, and platinum. The gold models largely retain their previous designs. As for the platinum, it will be paired with a smoked green dial with a base which is decorated with a sunburst pattern. This design was selected as the best “iconic” timepiece during Geneva’s 2021 Grand Prix d’Horologerie.

Watch Specifications

Diameter: 39mm

Material: Stainless Steel, 18K Yellow Gold, 18K Pink Gold, or Platinum

Functions: Hours, minutes, and date.

Case: Glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 50m.

Dial: Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 with Petite Tapisserie (Steel), Smoked grey dial with Petite Tapisserie (18K Pink Gold), Smoked yellow gold toned dial with Petite Tapisserie (18K Yellow Gold), Smoked green with sunburst base (Platinum)

Movement:

Self-winding Calibre 7121

Diameter- 29.6mm

Thickness- 3.2mm

Jewels- 33

Parts- 268

Min. Power Reserve- 55 hours.

Frequency of Balance Wheel- 4Hz (28,800 vibrations/hr)

For more information, you may visit http://www.audemarspiguet.com

PART 2: Most Notable Watches Auctioned in November 2021

Click here for Part 1 of this Article.

In this two-part article, Watch Manila highlights some of the notable watches auctioned off in November 2021. While the Patek Philippe x Tiffany & Co. Nautilus dominated the headlines in the last few weeks, it is important to note that watch afficionados still appreciate the watchmaking landscape beyond any hype.

Here are some of the other watches which have achieved success during the Geneva auctions last month:

9. Rolex Daytona in Platinum 

Auction House: Christie’s

Estimated Price: CHF70,000-170,000 (P3.8M-9.2M)

Price Sold: CHF200,000 (P10.09M)

Clearly, the fan favorite for the Daytona is the stainless steel variation with a “panda” dial. But Watch Manila notes that the prices of platinum Rolex watches have started to increase dramatically. There is an increased demand for this precious metal. The Rolex quality combined with the rarity of platinum has propelled this watch’s price above the estimates.

10. Rolex Day-Date “Rainbow” Ref. 18058

Auction House: Phillips

Estimated Price: CHF150,000-300,000 (P8.2M-16.4M)

Price Sold: CHF792,300 (P43.3M)

In today’s watch market, the “Rainbow” Daytona is very much sought after. Around 30 years before the Rainbow Daytona, Rolex released a possibly unique piece with “rainbow” colored precious stones on the bezel for a Day-Date. This “Rainbow” Day-Date is perhaps one of Rolex’ first rainbow inspired watches.

11. Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date Perpetual Calendar

Auction House: Christie’s

Estimated Price: CHF100,000-200,000 (P5.4M-10.8M)

Price Sold: CHF250,000 (Almost P13.6M)

There are approximately 11 pieces made of this prototype Rolex. This Rolex Day-Date Oysterquartz does not appear visually different from the other Oysterquartz. However, an inspection of the movement reveals a more complex mechanism. Rolex tried to make a perpetual calendar which can be operated through the same crown used to adjust the time. This watch is incredible as it is one of the prototypes wherein the movement is fully functional.

12. Rolex Deepsea Special

Auction House: Christie’s

Estimated Price: CHF2,000,000-4,000,000 (P109M-218M)

Price Sold: CHF1,890,000 (Almost P103M)

Unlike other watches in our list wherein the sale price exceeded the estimate, this one was slight below. However, it is worth taking a look at. Both Phillips and Christie’s offered Deep Sea Specials for the November auctions, However, the one being offered by Phillips is a commemorative edition made for the displays of the Rolex boutiques. This one offered by Christie’s was said to be used in the dive by Jacques Piccard’s bathyscaphe “Trieste” to 3,700 meters.

As Christie’s put it “This extraordinary watch can be considered as the most important Rolex diver’s watch to remain in private hands and without doubt one of the most desirable Rolex watches in the world.” 

There are only 7 known pieces of the Deep Sea Special. This piece is No.1. 

13. Philippe Dufour Grande and Petite Sonnerie 

Auction House: Phillips

Estimated Price: CHF1,000,000-2,000,000 (P54.5M-109M)

Price Sold: CHF4,749,000 (Almost P258.9M)

Philippe Dufour has clearly emerged as a leading independent watch maker. Its creations are sought after as the brand has demonstrated a near-perfection in crafting watches. The appeal of this watch is due to the fact that it is the first Philippe Dufour watch and the world’s first Grande & Petite Sonnerie wristwatch ever made.

Last time, Watch Manila featured another Philippe Dufour watch called “Simplicity” as it has no major complications. Despite the absence of complications, the Simplicity managed to do incredible as well in the auction.

14. F.P. Journe Chronometre a Resonance  “Souscription”

Auction House: Phillips

Estimated Price: CHF200,000-400,000 (P10.9M-21.8M)

Price Sold: CHF3,902,000 (Almost P212.7M)

F.P. Journe is one of the most recognized independent watchmakers in recent times. The watch shown here features resonating escapements and is the first out of a limited run of 20 pieces. The watch features a combination of platinum and pink gold case. It has been said that the Resonance of F.P. Journe was most likely inspired by A.L. Breguet.

15. Omega Speedmaster Broadarrow

Auction House: Phillips

Estimated Price: CHF80,000-120,000 (P4.3M-6.5M)

Price Sold: CHF3,115,500 (Almost P170M)

This is the most expensive Omega sold at an auction ever. This Omega carried the reference 2915-1 which makes it part of one of the first production runs of the historic Speedmaster. The dial features a tropical color which has aged. As a note, none of the preview ads of the auction even mentioned this lot. Most of the people were surprised at the result of this lot.

16. Richard Mille RM27-04 Rafael Nadal

Auction House: Phillips

Estimated Price: CHF800,000-1,600,000 (P43M-87M)

Price Sold: CHF1,663,500 (P90.7M)

Richard Mille continues to be polarizing. Nevertheless, it has established itself as a strong brand in terms of value. This RM027-04 was built to withstand the shocks during professional tennis matches of up to 12,000 Gs. And yes, it has a tourbillon. 

To visit part 1 of this article, click here.

Images are courtesy of the auction houses: Antiquorum, Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s.

Most Notable Watches Auctioned in November 2021

Last month, major global auction houses Antiquorum, Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s held watch auctions which saw notable movements within the watch industry. Records were broken and trends emerged. Watch Manila breaks down some of the notable pieces sold in this two-part special.

Clearly, Rolex still emerged as the strongest brand in the auction month. Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet also continued to deliver solid numbers. Aside from the said brands, it can be observed that there are winners across the board. Cartier, Omega, and Vacheron Constantin are some of the other winners. The watch market continues to display strength despite the pandemic.

Let’s look into some of the interesting watches sold during the November auctions. 

  1. Cartier Crash

Auction House: Sotheby’s

Estimated Price: CHF200,000-300,000 (P10.9M-16.4M)

Price Sold: CHF806,500 (P44.1M)

The Crash has been produced by Cartier sporadically and in limited numbers. This said model was one of the first ones ever produced. There is a rumor that says that the design of the Crash was brought about by a damaged and melted Cartier Baignoire from a crash. The watch was recently brought to the spotlight by Jay-Z and Kanye West.

2. Vacheron Constantin Ref. 222

Auction House: Christie’s

Estimated Price: CHF20,000-40,000 (P1.09M-2.18M)

Price Sold: CHF93,750 (P5.12M)

The Vacheron Constantin Ref. 222 is the ancestor of the Overseas. The 222 was released in 1977 to commemorate Vacheron’s 222nd anniversary. This watch and the Overseas have long been overlooked by collectors. In the 2010s, watch collectors became obsessed with the stainless steel-unibody watches especially from Patek Philippe (Nautilus) and Audemars Piguet (Royal Oak). As supply of Patek and AP became difficult, collectors started to realize the true value and beauty of Vacheron Constantin. With more people collecting the Overseas, the demand for the 222 has also increased. Watch Manila was one of the publications which recognized that the Overseas was a hidden treasure in the watch world.

3. Vacheron Constantin Ref. 4261 Minute Repeater

Auction House: Antiquorum

Estimated Price: CHF100,000-200,000 (P5.4M-10.9M)

Price Sold: CHF287,500 (P15.7M)

Watch Manila has observed that the watch industry in the 2010s has been dominated by a shift towards simple watches in stainless steel. With the demand heavy on the said watch class, the demand for fine watches with complications dropped. Watch Manila believes that as more collectors mature and get over the hype stage, the same crowd will start to go for undervalued fine timepieces. This Vacheron Constantin Minute Repeater in gold is a watch which could symbolize the potential up and coming resurgence of fine timepieces with complications.

4. Rolex Daytona “John Player Special Paul Newman” Ref. 6264

Auction House: Sotheby’s

Estimated Price: CHF800,000-1,200,000 (P43.7M-65.6M)

Price Sold: CHF891,200 (P48.7M)

The Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” label originated from the 1970s when John Player & Sons sponsored the Lotus F1 team. According to collectors, the JPS Daytonas are reminiscent of the design of John Player & Sons. Sotheby’s noted that most of the Ref. 6264 Daytonas were made in stainless steel. There are approximately only ten known pieces in yellow gold. From the ten, there are even fewer Daytonas fitted with the JPS dial. 

5. Rolex Daytona “John Player Special Paul Newman” Ref. 6241

Auction House: Phillips

Estimated Price: HKD4,650,000-9,400,000 (P30.1M-60.8M)

Price Sold: HKD13,560,000 (P87.8M)

In addition to the details mentioned in the previous item, it is worth noting that this is the third most expensive Rolex Daytona sold in auction. With many people being fascinated with Paul Newman Daytonas, collectors are zeroing in on John Player Specials since they are rare as well.

6. Rolex Day-Date in Stainless Steel 

Auction House: Phillips

Estimated Price: CHF50,000-100,000 (P2.7M-5.4M)

Price Sold: CHF113,400 (P6.2M)

When the Day-Date was launched in 1956, it became the ultimate Rolex watch. The Day-Date was only available in precious metals: gold and platinum. This notwithstanding, the watch sold at the recent Phillips auction was one of a few Day-Date prototypes produced by Rolex in stainless steel.

7. Steel Rolex GMTs

a.) Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi” Ref. 126710BLRO

Auction House: Christie’s

Estimated Price: CHF12,000-18,000 (P656k-984k)

Price Sold: CHF25,000 (P1.36M)

b.) Rolex GMT-Master II “Batgirl” Ref. 126710BLNR

Auction House: Christie’s

Estimated Price: CHF12,000-18,000 (P656k-1.094M)

Price Sold: CHF27,500 (P1.5M)

These watches do not need an introduction. The two watches are two of the hottest Rolexes in the market. In their current iteration, they retail for around P517,500. But it is almost impossible to pick one up at your authorized dealer. What’s important to note is that these watches still have strong demands as they both sold for more than double their retail price. The hunt for the steel Rolex watches continues to be tough.

8. Philippe Dufour Simplicity

Auction House: Phillips

Estimated Price: CHF250,000-500,000 (P13.6M-27.3M)

Price Sold: CHF792,300 (P41.3M)

Philippe Dufour is one of the most sought-after independent watch brands. Its pieces command high prices due to the limited production and due to the high quality of watchmaking. The watch which was recently sold doesn’t feature any major complication and doesn’t even feature a date. However, this watch is an example of how Philippe Dufour perfected the “simple” watch. What is amazing is that the winning bidder paid a mind-blowing P41.3M for the said watch.

Stay tuned for part 2 of the notable watches in the recently concluded November auctions.

Images are courtesy of the auction houses: Antiquorum, Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s.

Panerai Releases Two New Watches

Panerai has released two new watches in the Chrono Complicazioni segment, a watch family characterized by a combination of high-tech materials, complex calibers, and small quantities. The two new watches will both be limited.

PAM01298

The first watch is the Luminor Chrono Flyback Ceramica (PAM 01298). It will have a run of 500 pieces. The Flyback Ceramica features a 44mm black ceramic case. The watch is lightweight and highly scratch resistant. It is powered by an automatic movement with a power reserve of up to three days. The watch is paired with a black alligator strap.

PAM01296

The next watch is the Luminor Chrono Flyback Verde Militare (PAM 01296). This watch will be exclusively sold through e-commerce on Panerai.com. The Verde Militare will be limited to 110 pieces only. The 44mm watch is made from stainless steel. It runs on the same P.9100 calibre as the Flyback Ceramica which features an automatic movement with a three day power reserve. The strap is an alligator military green leather.

Both watches have the flyback function and a nautical tachymeter scale present on their dials.