Tag: Royal Oak

Hands On: Stefano Ricci Octagon Diamond Lux Edition

Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

When you hear “luxury timepiece or watch”, you are likely to think of Rolex or Patek Philippe. But one brand which aims to make a noise in the watch segment is Stefano Ricci. Just what or who is Stefano Ricci?

For starters, Stefano Ricci is a luxury lifestyle brand, named after himself. The brand, which is based in Florence, Italy, is known for their menswear, home, and lifestyle pieces. In the Philippines, Stefano Ricci is present through their standalone boutique in Solaire Resort & Casino located at the Entertainment City in Metro Manila.

While the brand has been around since 1972, it was only in last year when Stefano Ricci entered the world of high horology with their SR Octagon watch line. Locally, the Philippine boutique has a stock of the SR Octagon Chronograph Diamond Lux Edition which is limited to 10 pieces worldwide. 

SR Octagon Chronograph Diamond Lux Edition

Design

One of the inspirations for the watch design: the octagonal dome of Santa Maria del Fiore in Florence, Italy.

The design of the watch is definitely unique and a little polarizing even. The first thing that might come to mind for people is that the watch is either inspired primarily by Chinese beliefs or the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak due to its octagonal shape. But this is not the case. According to Mr. Stefano Ricci, the main inspiration for the watch springs from his hometown. Further, the reference to the octagonal shape of the watch is from the notable structures in Florence: Battistero di San Giovanni, the Dome of Santa Maria del Fiore, and the Tribuna of the Uffizi. Mr. Ricci intends for the watch to be an entire tribute to Florence. 

On the left, you will see the intricate cover of the casebook. On the right, once you flip open the cover, you will see the movement.

The case of the SR Octagon Chronograph Diamond Lux is made of 18K white gold and it has a watch face diameter measuring 45.5mm and a thickness of 14.8mm. The dial is in a deep blue shade and features the chronograph function and a date window, aside from the time. This Diamond Lux model has 88 diamonds, totaling to over 8 carats, throughout the watch set with the ancient a battuta method wherein the metal is hammered around the precious stones before being polished. When you flip the watch to see the back side, you will be amazed with the intricate hand-etched caseback cover. The cover can be flipped open to reveal the beautiful movement powering the watch.

The SR Octagon Chronograph Diamond Lux on the wrist of Watch Manila’s Atty. Sieg Suarez. On both images, you will observe how large the watch actually is on the wrist. On the picture on the right, you will notice that there are diamonds set on the side of the case aside from those set on the bezel and on the clasp.

The SR Octagon wears big and will definitely suit those with large wrists. The heft of the watch is really evident from all angles. Further, as with any other watch in gold and with diamonds, the watch naturally wears heavy on the wrist.

The clasp, like the bezel, is octagonal in shape and features 24 diamonds.

Despite the size and the heft, the strap of the watch feels comfortable as it is made from alligator leather. Notably, the watch clasp is also octagonal in shape and features 24 diamonds.

Movement

The SR Octagon Chronograph features a self-winding mechanism with a power reserve of 42 to 50 hours depending on the usage of the chronograph function. The base of the movement is by watch manufacturer Parmigiani Fleurier (PF331) combined with a Dubois-Dépraz Chronograph module. As a chronograph, the watch indicates sub-dials for small seconds (at 3), chronograph hours (at 6), and chronograph minutes (at 9). 

Thoughts

The SR Octagon watch line was created in order to expand the Stefano Ricci lifestyle to fine watches. 

The design of the watch is definitely a conversation-starter. Stefano Ricci will definitely have the watch industry talking. As to whether the watch design will be embraced or rejected, this is yet to be seen. 

Going beyond the design, you will realize that the watch is really well-made. To their credit, Stefano Ricci really tried to put together a watch with the best possible case, material, and movement. While the brand cannot boast of centuries of watchmaking heritage, their maiden attempt at watches is respectable from a quality standpoint.

The SR Octagon Chronograph Diamond Lux watch retails for just a little over P13,000,000.00.

You may visit Stefano Ricci at its boutique located at The Shoppes at Solaire Resort and Casino. You may also contact them at: +63 2 9754369 and manila@stefanoricci.com

The Watch That Every Serious Collector Should Have

Tagged , , , , , , , ,

Currently, it can be said that the most sought-after watches are the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and the Rolex Daytona. Some may have a longer list, but globally, the three watches are some of the hardest to get. The three watches have made their contentions on why the watch collecting world wants them. However, there is one watch which I believe many people are missing out on. I’m talking about the Vacheron Constantin Overseas.

Vacheron Constantin ref. 222. Image from Phillips Auctions.

The story of the Overseas started in 1977 with the launch of the sports watch Vacheron Constantin ref. 222. The reference is in relation to Vacheron Constantin’s 222nd anniversary. The watch was designed by then 24 year old Jorg Hysek. The 222 was produced in a limited run of 500 pieces in all metal and dial variations. One of the highlights of the 222 is that it features a small Maltese cross (the logo of Vacheron Constantin) near the 5 o’clock marker, outside of the bezel.

The first Vacheron Constantin bearing the model name “Overseas”. This had a production run from 1996-2004.

In 1996, Vacheron Constantin launched the Overseas. This watch was the successor to the 222. It was more refined and it was the first model which had hints of the Maltese cross on its bezel. Noticeable in this model is that the bracelet looks like an ordinary watch bracelet, without any unique design. Internally, it still did not feature an in-house movement.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas from 2004-2016. Image from Monochrome Watches.

In 2004, the Overseas was updated again. Aesthetic improvements include the newer bracelet and a stronger accent of the Maltese cross on the bezel. The 2004 update features for the first time the middle part of the bracelet having some design elements of the Vacheron Constantin logo integrated in it. At this point, mechanisms are still modified movements of other brands, including Jaeger-LeCoultre.

The current Vacheron Constantin Overseas ref. 4500V/110A-B128

The current iteration of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas was launched in 2016. The model has perfected the integration of tradition with modernity. The current Overseas models range from the simple self-winding ones up to the complicated models with tourbillons, perpetual calendars, moon phases, and more. The Overseas now feature in-house movements. All the movements feature the Hallmark of Geneva, or the “Geneva Seal”. Watches given the Geneva Seal have been thoroughly tested for quality.

Some of the gold models of the Overseas.

Commonalities of the Royal Oak, Nautilus, and Overseas

It is important to note that the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Patek Philippe Nautilus, and the Vacheron Constantin Overseas (previously 222) shared three notable things: decade of launch, base of movement, and unibody design.

All three watches were launched in the 1970s, during the time when quartz seriously threatened the Swiss watch industry.

All three watches used movements based on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s caliber 920.

Lastly, the Nautilus, Royal Oak, and the Overseas all had a unibody design wherein the metal bracelet was integrated to the watch case.

Why should every serious watch collector have a Vacheron Constantin Overseas?

Made by Vacheron Constantin

Anything made by Vacheron Constantin is guaranteed to be of the highest standards. Vacheron Constantin leaves no aspect undone, both externally and internally. The materials used in the case and the bracelet are solid and are of quality. The movement, as mentioned earlier, features the coveted Geneva Seal.

Versatile

You receive a metal bracelet, a rubber strap, and a leather strap when you purchase an Overseas.

When you purchase the Overseas, you get a metal band (steel or gold), a rubber strap, and a leather strap. Switching is made easy through a quick change mechanism. The best part of it all is that the Overseas looks good in all of the bands. With the inclusion of the three bands, you have a watch which can adapt to any situation.

Unique

Despite the long lines for the Patek Philippe Nautilus, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and the Rolex Daytona, these watches can be seen all over the place. There’s just an irony that it is unavailable but then many people have it. Due to the increasing prices brought about by speculation, these watches have lost some intrinsic value as they have become commodities and trading items for some. The Overseas does not suffer from the problem of long lines and price speculation. You will be able to purchase and obtain an Overseas in a similar time as you would with any Vacheron Constantin piece. You will also be secured in knowing that there are not much people who purchase and flip the Overseas for a higher price. And lastly, you will be happy to know that you will likely be the only person wearing the Overseas in a room at any given time.

People are asking why the Overseas has not reached the same level of cult-like following as with the Nautilus, Royal Oak, and the Daytona.

The easiest answer would be that Vacheron Constantin is not as aggressive in marketing the watch. Another answer is that there are much fewer celebrities and known personalities wearing the watch.

But then again, does Vacheron Constantin really want that attention? I would say that the attention is not needed. Watchmaking perfection is not dependent on the attention a watch gets. Watchmaking perfection depends on the craftsmanship of the watch combined with the appreciation of a person. Given this, I can say that the Overseas is truly a masterpiece and it remains a watch reserved for those with greater discernment in watches. There is absolutely no need for a cult-like following to understand that the Overseas is an absolute treasure.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas is available through its boutique. Starting price of the quartz model (33mm) is at P770,000. Starting price of the self-winding models are at P1,050,000. (37mm) and P1,130,000 (41mm).